July 15, 2009

tarte à la tomate sur pâte de feuilles de brick

tarte /taʀt/ feminine noun

  1. Culin tart;
  1. (popular) wallop (colloquial).

tomate /tɔmat/ feminine noun

  1. tomato;
  1. tomato plant;
  1. pastis with a dash of grenadine.

feuille /fœj/ feminine noun

  1. Bot leaf;
  1. (of paper, metal) sheet.

This is such an easy dish (yes, once again…) that I made for dinner the other night. I’m not sure if you can get feiulle de brick in the US, but foli would be a proper substitute.

Ingredients:

3 feuilles de brick, or if you can’t get it where you are, filo woll work fine as well

1-2 tsp dijon mustard

3 large ripe tomatoes

spring onions

1 tbsp olive oil

basil
Heat the oven to about 350. Lay out the feuilles de brick in the bottom of a pie pan or a cake pan. Use a spoon to spread the dijon mustand over it? Slice the tomatoes thinkly, then cover the crust. Add chopped spring onions and basil. Dribble olive oil over the prepared tart.

P1010005

Heat for about 15 minutes. You can serve this tarte warm or cooled.

Oh, and we drank a local wine, ‘ Anthélie’ (my new summer love) with it, and the sweet honey-fruity flavor was a wonderful cooling offest to the tomatoes!

P1010002

July 14, 2009

French cooking secret #1 : if it’s a vegetable, cook the bejeezus out of it

And when I say bejeezus, I mean bejeezus. Don’t be afraid!

Growing up, I loved vegetables, preferring them steamed of boiled, occasionally lightly sautéed. I always took care not to overcook them, careful to leave them crunchy with vitamins intact.

After moving here and being spoonfed (okay, maybe not spoonfed, but you get the picture) by a diverse sampling of French women, I noticed one thing most had in common when it came to vegetables:

They cooked the hell out of them.

At first I was outraged, “Where do all of the vitamins go?!” I swore to maintain a healthy lifestyle for my husband and myself by not falling into the same trap. I steamed and I sauteéed carefully, and I felt pride for the little bit of good I was doing for those who would eat my cuisine, for I had served them not only dinner, but vitamins.

Then, several months ago, following some family drama, you know the kind that makes people speak in hushed silences and with pity, my sister in law came to stay with us for a few weeks.

One night she made dinner, and as a side prepared some zuchinni in olive oil.

Now we eat a lot of zuchinni in Provence, probably since it’s cheap and grows like all get out, and I have often included zuchinni based dishes in our meals. But never, ever had I sacreligiously cooked zuchinni to the mushy mess that I saw her doing in my kitchen. I retaliated by making a salad, and in typical fashion of women who are not close, do not necessarily get along well, but are forced into the same family circle by incidence or marraige, we each placed our prepared dish onto the table, with a main dish of something that I cannot even remember.

My husband came to the table and we began to serve ourselves . I politely took a frugal portion of her soggy zuchinni, as she did for my crisp salad. My husband dished a little of everything onto his own plate.

Then we began eating, and as the conversation rolled along, a deep moan came from the back of my husband’s throat.

“Oh my God, ma chérie, what did you do to this zuchinni?”

I politely answered that I had not made it, and as I bit down into my own squishy heaven, I decided it would be that last time that another woman would make my husband moan.

I have been overcooking vegetables ever since.

The recipe for my sister in law’s heavenly zuchinni is a basic recipe that can be used for eggplant, squash and certainly many other vegetables in order to give them a deep Provençal flavor.

Courgettes à l’huile d’olive:

5 – 6 zuchinni

@6-10 tbsp olive oil

1 – 2 garlic cloves

basil

salt

Wash and chop zuchinni. I tend to cut the pieces large, but it really doesn’t matter, you can do whatever size you prefer. Pour olive oil into the bottom of a deep saucepan. Heat on about medium. Put the zuchinni into the saucepan, and stir immediately and thouroughly to be sure that the olive oil coats all of the different pieces. Let sautée, stirring occasionally.

P10100ghdfh25

If you feel the mixture is too dry or if it sticks to the bottom of the pan, you can add more olive oil.

Chop the basil and garlic while you are waiting.

P1010058

Let the vegetables cook a bit, and then add the herbs. Then just let it keep cooking. It should get nearly soggy looking. It is at this point that I add the garlic and salt to taste. (If you put the garlic in too early it will overcook, and add a bitter taste to the vegetables.)

Once you feel like you have adequately cooked the bejeezus out of your vegetables, and they are losing form, soggy and falling apart, they are likely ready!

P1010033

July 13, 2009

poulet farci aux pommes de terre

poulet /pulɛ/ masculine noun: chicken.

COMPOUNDS:
~ d’élevage ≈ battery chicken;
~ fermier ≈ free-range chicken.

farcir /faʀsiʀ/ transitive verb (culinary) to stuff.


pomme de terre        nf    potato

Roast chicken stuffed with potatoes may seem quite ordinary, but it is a classic French dish as well. And (once again) it is so simple to make.

Ingredients :

1 whole chicken (I use free range)

3 lbs potatoes

2 garlic cloves

basil

olive oil

salt

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Wash and cut the potatoes into large bite sized peices. If you don’t like the skin you can peel them first, but I don’t even bother. It becomes soft after being cooked and only adds to the taste.

Chop the garlic into small bits. I sue fresh basil – if you are as well you can also chop it into bits.

Put the chopped potatoes, basil and garlic together in a bowl and mix around a bit.

P1010059

Unbind the chicken so that you have easy access to it’s cavity. Then stuff the cavity full of as much of the potato mixture that you can get into it.

P1010063

Put the remaining potatoes in a large oven pan with about a cup of water. Place the stuffed chicken on top of the potatoes. Rub a bit of olive oil and salt into it’s skin. I use gros sel, or edible rock salt, as it gives it a really original flavour. (And because my husband begs me to!)

P1010066

Cook uncovered for about 1 hr 30 minutes.

Oh, and a funny thing happened when Ibrought this chicken home from the butcher shop – I think the worker there was new, and honestly I have no idea what he was thinking! The French may be known for eating snails, tongue, and frog legs, but I have yet to know one who eats chicken heads!

P1010061

My guess is that it was kept on for freshness, since I often go to the same butcher, and in the past they have never given me a ‘whole’ chicken in such a literal sense.

For wine, we drank from our supply of Cabernet d’Anjou and it was a cool, fruity complement to ease the summer heat and lighten the meal.

July 12, 2009

viniagrette balsamique

vinaigrette        nf    salad dressing; vinaigrette;  French dressing

balsamique     (vinaigre)    adj    balsamique

One of the first things I noticed in the grocery store here in France was the very small selection of ready made salad dressings. After trying one or two, I was quite disappointed, until learning that most people don’t eat these, or only do so in a bind.

One of the simplest  secrets to putting a little bit of Provence in your meal, should salad be included, is making your own dressing.

It only takes one or two minutes, so I personally don’t make more than we will consume for the meal that we are preparing to eat, but many people do multiply the quantities and store it in the refrigerator.

I happen to prefer doing it each time, for two main reasons -I generally use garlic, which tends to get stronger the longer it sits in the oil, so after a few days it can be quite pungent. Secondly, I like to tweak and vary the recipe according to what I happen to be serving in a main course, so that the flavors complement each other.

The recipe (for one use – if you want to make more, just multiply the proportions.)

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp rapeseed or canola oil

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 large garlic clove

1/2 tsp dijon mustard

salt & pepper

P1010146

Mince garlic, add olive oil, canola oil and mustard. Stir briskly with a fork or wire whisks. Add balsamic vinegar. Stir again, until mixture thickens. Salt and pepper according to taste.

I like to do it directly in a large salad bowl,  so I can put the leafy greens on top of the vinagrette, and then toss them, making sure it has coated the the salad thouroughly.

Of course, there are so many variations to this dressing, and with a basic recipe like this you can do almost anything you might imagine. My mother in law makes the same recipe, only with (homemade, of course) red wine vinegar and no mustard, and it is delicious! I sometimes use apple cider or hazlenut or raspberry vinegar instead of basalmic. Oh, and of course, you can substitute lavender vinegar for balsamic to give it a very unique, summery taste. Also, feel free to substitue shallots for garlic, or you can even subtract it entirely from the recipe if you don’t want to frighten any vampires!

July 12, 2009

jus d’abricot

Question : what do you do when the fruit-monger is running some kind of insane price reduction on apricots which causes you to buy 11 pounds of said fruit?

P1010068

Answer: whip it into a blender with a little water, and you have fresh homemade juice!

P1010qsd072

jus /ʒy/ noun, masculine invariable

  1. juice;
  1. (from meat) juices;
    gravy;
  1. electricity;
    prendre le ~ to get a shock.


abricot /abʀiko/ masculine noun apricot.

My husband found it to be a bit acidic, so I added a banana to the mix to sweeten it. We had guests over that evening, and they went crazy over it and finished the whole batch that had been made, so now it is time to make more!

July 10, 2009

melon au jambon cru

P10ze10013

July 9, 2009

se balader

lavendar113087639055_1582849556_30263519_2626949_n

balader /balade/ (familiar)

  1. transitive verb
    1. to take [sb] for a walk/drive;
    1. to carry [sth] around.
  1. se balader reflexive verb (+ v être) to go for a walk/ride/drive.
IDIOMS:

envoyer qn ~ (familiar) to send sb packing (colloquial).

One of my favorite elements of the local culture here is the permission we have, as a nation, to take time to do nothing. On Sunday, most shops are closed, and if one if tempted to leave the house before noon, they will quickly find that with the occasional exception of an open café or a bakery open, it seems the whole world has decided to sleep until noon. Or work in their gardens. Or spend a very long, lingering petit déjeuner opening their petals to the world.
Sunday is a day when often we invite or are invited by friends or family for a noontime meal, and spend several hours around a table savouring various courses as the pass before and through our palette. The first time I was invited by my husband for a ‘noontime meal’ at his family’s house, during the time we were dating, I was surprised beyond words when we spent over four hours together at the table, and that it was nearly eight in the evening before we left their house!
Wine, of course, being one of the elements in any family meal shared, the hardest part of the otherwise delightful experience is generally staying awake afterward!
I believe this is one reason why the French serve a shot of espresso at the end of a meal. Not only is it a delicious way to terminate such a wonderful sensory experience as most meals here generally are, it is quite practical after two or three glasses of wine!
It is quite common at this point for someone to suggest a balade, which is basically a convivial excuse to continue spending time together by driving or walking or both somewhere beautiful nearby.
I had friends visiting from the United States last month, and tried as a good host should, to introduce them to the joys of local cuisine, of course, wines, and the obligitory balade. Here are some photos from a drive to Grignan, large perched village near my home, that the three of us visited on their last day here. (I reassure you, they did the drinking, and I the driving!)

4grig886_1113087679056_1582849556_30263520_1823829_n
Lavender was in season (I believe it still is now in July, though we must be nearing the end of it) and fields like the one above and below peppered the countryside.
My favorite thing about the lavendar is the aroma it creates in the regions that grow it. Sometimes, when we are driving down a local country road, I know there is lavender, I can smell it, even if I can’t see it yet!
Local lavender is used for a variety of purposes : honey, soaps, essential oils, herbs de Provence…I like to throw it on the coals of our barbeque just before putting the meat on. The effect of smoking lavendar on the taste of steaks, chicken and summer sausages is amazing.
Another recipe I personally adore is lavendar vinegar, which can be used as a natural cleaning agent that leaves a wonderful, authentic smell in your house. I also use the vinegar in the salad dressing I make, (recipe coming soon) to give it a taste of Provençe.
And surprise, it couldn’t be easier to make.

Vinagre de lavande (makes 1 quart) :
ingredients:
1 qt apple cider vinegar
4 oz lavender, either fresh or dried

Pour the vinegar directly into the in a container that can be closed and place the lavender (flower, stem, leaves and all) inside with it. (An old water bottle will work fine.) Close the container, shake gently, and put it somewhere away from extreme heat/cold and sunlight. In the back of a pantry is an ideal place.
Wait a month. Then strain the vinegar to remove the lavender, put into an empty bottle, et voila, it is ready for use!

Oh, and of course, back to our balade, here are some photos taken by my friend in beautiful Grignan itself. First, the view from the top of the hill on which the town is perched:
grig4886_1113087879061_1582849556_30263525_4306164_n
chateau4886_1113087919062_1582849556_30263526_2131341_n
We saw this house down below from inside the gates of the castle’s courtyard. I told my friends how much I would love to live in one just like it.
grig4886_1113087959063_1582849556_30263527_5410824_n
The icing on the cake of living in such a charming house is to have your very own labyrinth next door!
grig4886_1113087999064_1582849556_30263528_7923631_n
We descended down into the labyrinth to lay in the sun and enjoy it’s quaint beauty, and admire Grignan from below after having walked it’s cobblestone winding alleys.
grig4886_1113088159068_1582849556_30263531_7644821_n

July 8, 2009

cabernet d’anjou

They say it’s a woman’s wine.

It’s my husband’s favorite rosé, which nearly strictly limits our summer options, as he generally snubs rosé, is picky about whites, and I find red difficult to swallow in the sweltering heat.

This summer, I’ve gone a step farther, and have bought le cubit.

So instead of our usual peché mignon of finishing the bottle together over a weeknight dinner lingering in conversation outdoors, we can sip on it for days on end, hiding our deed from one another.

Even as I sit here writing this, and he is asleep in bed, I know the dancing flavors in my glass to the left of my keypad will light up my mouth without ever being detected by him.

Yes, even the French find reasons to drink wine in a box.

July 8, 2009

velouté de betteraves

velouté, ~e /vəlute/

  1. adjective [skin, voice] velvety;
    [wine] smooth.
  1. masculine noun
    1. Culin ~ de champignons cream of mushroom soup;
    1. softness;
      smoothness.

betterave /bɛtʀav/ feminine noun beet;
~ rouge beetroot;
~ sucrière sugar beet.

Ever since reading Tom Robbin’s Skinny Legs and All as a teenager, and being led by curiousity to taste my first one, I’ve held a red hot love affair with beets.

I love their red, red vitamin packed goodness. I love how when I buy them at my local market, if I don’t keep themin a plastic bag until eating them, their color seeps through and stains everything in my refrigerator. I love how preparing them, anything I touch in my kitchen leaves traces of their passing.

At least I know where to clean afterwards, right?

During beet season there are all kinds of recipes I make with this vegetable, but there is one classic French dish that has caught my eye as of late. Nothing could be simpler, still, it is wonderful.

Velouté de betteraves.

This soup is very simple to prepare, and can be eaten hot or chilled. I like to make  on a summer evening, when the air has cooled, serve it as a first course, and then save the leftover portion for a chilled soup at lunch the next day.
PIC_0958
If I’m really in a hurry, I know that I can even drink it cold from a glass. It’s low fat, vitamin packed, and pure deliciousness.
The recipe:  (feeds 4 – 6)
Preparation time : 5- 10 minutes
Cooking time : 20 minutes
Total : 25 – 30 minutes
Ingredients :
6 raw beets
1 onion
4 tomatoes
1 cube bouillon (any kind will work chicken, beef, vegetarian…)
4 tbsp lemon juice (or squeezed from about 1/2 of a lemon)
1/4 cup light cream
1 tbsp olive oil
Cut the onion into large pieces and sautée it lightly in a deep pot with the olive oil. When the onion has softened but not yet turned brown, add the bouillon and 1 quart of water.
While stirring the onion occasionally, peel and dice the beets. Dice the tomatoes as well.
Add the tomatoes and beets to the onions. Add salt and pepper.
Let everything sautée together for about 20 minutes.
You can either use an electric hand mixer, or put the soup in a blender on high to achieve the creamy texture. At this time, add the lemon juice and the light cream. You can also add some fresh basil or other herb if you wish – but stay very simple, and go lightly. The soup already has such a pure, fresh and pungent taste that to add to much to it will only take away from it’s pure goodness.
PIC_0957